Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Gday Mate!

After a couple of days in Bangkok spent shopping for cheap goods, having drinks on Khao San Road, seeing an infamous ping pong show and having a mini-spa night with some lovely ladies from around the world, I’ve arrived in Melbourne, Australia!

Last night in Bangkok

So far pretty much everything in Melbourne reminds me of home, making it easy to like. The streets, buildings, restaurants, people and even the weather are all very similar to what you’d find in Vancouver. I’m currently staying at a hostel in St. Kilda, a pleasant beachfront community chock full of backpackers located just outside of the CBD (Central Business District, AKA downtown). Its numerous shops and cafes, plus the fact that it's right on the beach, gives it a relaxed and pleasant atmosphere.

While there are heaps of similarities between Vancouver and Melbourne, some things are going to take a bit of getting used to after spending so much time in SE Asia. I got so used to jaywalking in Vietnam that I'm now finding it difficult to wait for the little green man to show up before crossing the street and my jaw dropped a little when a bartender asked for $23 for two beers, a price that could have gotten me a week's accommodation in some places! While it's strange to find myself experiencing a sort of 'reverse' culture shock, I'm definitely enjoying many aspects of being back in a developed country that feels more like home, namely the lack of squat toilets!

I’m not sure how long I’ll be staying in Melbourne for but I can definitely see myself staying for a few months. I’m going to start applying for jobs next week so I’ll probably have a better idea if/when I get one.

Looking forward to seeing more of what this chapter of my trip has in store for me!

Luna Park in St. Kilda

St. Kilda beach

CBD

Autumn in May!

Southbank/Yarra River

First cultural experience in Aus: Vegemite!

P.S. If spread thinly, Vegemite gets two thumbs up from me!

Thursday, May 9, 2013

Adios Asia!








After seven months, eight countries and approximately 180 servings of rice, the sun has set on my time in Asia. 

Traveling in this part of the world has been a completely eye opening experience. I had no idea just how different everything, from toilets to modes of transportation, would be! There are many things that I love about Asia and am definitely going to miss...

Beautiful beaches

Riding on the back of motos

Visiting temples and pagodas

Eating cheap and delicious food

Befriending monks

Tuk tuk rides

'Interesting' fashion statements

 ... and some things that I got used to, but will not miss in the slightest

Enough said

Crazy traffic and way too much honking

In addition to adjusting to new norms, I've also learned a great deal about countries I previously knew very little about. The genocide in Cambodia, the use of Agent Orange in Vietnam, the Secret War in Laos, the oppression in Myanmar... while I could have read about these events from home, for me it's no substitute to visiting these places and meeting people who've experienced things first hand.

Killing fields in Cambodia

Bomb crater in Laos

While I'm sad that this chapter of my trip has come to a close, I'm also very much looking forward to the next one. It's time to explore the land down 'unda, where new people, experiences and sunsets await. Bring it on Australia!

Monday, May 6, 2013

The Wow Factor

Two of Myanmar's most popular tourist destinations are Inle Lake, where locals live in houses on stilts over the water and earn their livelihood primarily by fishing...




...and Bagan, an ancient city where there are over 3,000 temples, pagodas and stupas.





I'd heard a lot about both and was really looking forward to seeing them. They both had their pleasant aspects but nevertheless, left me slightly underwhelmed.

It wasn't that these places weren't charming or interesting but I couldn't help comparing them to similar places I had already been to. The stilted houses at Inle Lake reminded me a lot of Tonle Sap Lake, while the many temples in Bagan made me think of Angkor Wat. At the risk of sounding a bit spoiled, they just didn’t impress me the way they might have had I not already seen such similar places in Cambodia. I guess that's a potential downfall of traveling: the more you see of something, be it churches, fountains, waterfalls or temples, the more elusive the 'wow factor' becomes.


Still, just because something doesn't wow you doesn't mean you can't enjoy yourself!

Sunday, May 5, 2013

Memorable Faces

During my time in Myanmar I have met too many lovely people to count. Some, however, have made a lasting impression on me and I'm unlikely to forget them anytime soon.


11 hours and one hectic train ride later I had arrived in the sleepy coastal town of Mawlamyine. One of the staff at my guesthouse was extra welcoming and his name was Mr. Anthony. On his days off, Mr. Anthony acts as a tour guide and takes tourists over to an island some 10 kilometers away from the mainland. Obviously it's more with his while if there is a group of people wanting to go but I was the only person interested that day. In every other country I've been to this would have meant no tour for me, but not in Myanmar - Mr. Anthony kindly took me anyway, which meant I had my own personal guide for the day! He made a huge effort to make sure his 'Canadian daughter' (which introduced me to people as) had a safe and enjoyable day. When I left Mawlamyine for a town called Hpa-an, Mr. Anthony called my guesthouse there to make sure I had arrived safely. I don’t think people get more sweet than him.



I met this young woman and her daughter on the way back from my island tour with Mr. Anthony. As our boat pulled away from the dock, the young woman was crying and waving goodbye to an older woman still on shore. This girl spoke no English so I asked Mr. Anthony to ask her who the woman was. He told me that it was the girl's mother, who she only gets to see every four or five years because she works in Thailand where she can earn more money. I actually started crying when I heard that. I miss my family all the time but it's 100% my choice - I don't have to be traveling, whereas this girl
has to work in Thailand. I asked Mr. Anthony to tell her that I missed my mom too, which made her smile a little.


I met this couple while on a three hour train ride in Yangon that does a circle around the city. About an hour and a half in on this very hot day, I ran out of water. No one was selling it on the train and it didn't make long enough stops for me to run out and buy any. The couple noticed me looking around and my empty bottle, so they somehow flagged down a vendor at one of the stops, bought a new bottle, poured half into a bottle they already had and kindly gave the rest to me. I tried to pay them, but they wouldn't take any money. I got to talking with them and the guy spoke decent English. He told me that he had been with his girlfriend for five years, but that he was moving to Japan for work, and she to Singapore. This had me a bit panicked because they were so cute together! When I asked what they were planning to do, he answered by asking if I had seen the movie Going the Distance (chick flick about Drew Barrymore and Justin Long making a LD relationship work). I told him I had, and he pretty much just said, that's what we're gonna do! (Spoiler alert: Drew and Justin end up together in the same place - I hope it will be the same for this adorable couple!)


I met Ma Cho my first day in Myanmar. I was wandering around one of the city’s many pagodas, and upon leaving, stopped to say hello to some stray dogs. They were all very fond of one woman in particular, who has a small shop just outside the pagoda, and that’s how I met Ma Cho. She speaks virtually no English but is so good-humored that it doesn't matter at all. I could not get through a visit with her without eating tons of food - one time I had to eat an entire papaya. She is one of the most bubbly and generous people I have ever met.


I met this family while at the temples in Bagan. The young girl, who couldn't have been more than 12 years old, asked (in very good English) if she could take a picture with me. After we did, her younger brother shyly muttered something to her in Burmese, which must have been 'I want a picture too' because she then asked if I would take one with her brother. I chatted with the father for a bit, and then we said our goodbyes as they made their way down the temple. When they were at the bottom I happened to look down and realized they were taking another picture of me, so I took one of them too!


I met these kids on the night bus heading from Inle Lake to Bagan. They were a few rows in front of me and as the only foreigner on the bus, seemed to find me quite interesting. They would not stop turning around and looking at me, so I waved them over and offered them my iPhone and iPod, which they thoroughly enjoyed playing with. Eventually they went back to their seats, but a few hours later the little girl came back to where I was sitting, sat down in the empty seat next to me, curled up beside me and promptly fell asleep. So sweet.


The woman at the market in Mawlamyine who gave me some thanaka and when I tried to pay her, wouldn't accept any money.


The awesome man I sat next to one day while I was eating lunch on the street, who drank his midday beer out of a straw.


The woman who invited me into her house, where she was hanging out with her sister, and went out and bought me a cold drink from a stand outside.


Some gifts I received on a bus from locals. Never in a million years would I be offered a beer and/or two apples from perfect strangers in Canada!

This is probably me stating the obvious by this point, but the highlight of this country has by far been its kind people.

Only One

Originally written May 3, 2013

As I’ve already mentioned many times, people in Myanmar are friendly in the extreme. It’s very difficult to walk around without someone initiating a conversation with you - one day I rented a bicycle, and even then a man on a motorbike started chatting to me while we were both still moving! They all seem very curious about me and almost always ask the same questions: where I come from, how old I am and if I am "only one". That's literally how everybody here says it. Not "are you on your own?", "are you by yourself?" but simply "only one?"

The way they phrase the question is very literal, and responding to it so many times got me thinking. As the Asia portion of my trip comes to a close, I've been reflecting a lot on the last seven months I've spent traveling by myself. Initially there were a couple of people I talked about traveling with, but now I can't imagine having done it any other way than on my own.

Traveling solo has made me realize so much, not only about the world around me but about myself as well. I've learned more about trivial things from kinds of food I like, to bigger things like what kind of people I enjoy traveling with and perhaps most importantly, knowing when I've had enough of something and being able to adapt to different situations.

I've also learned that I can handle quite a bit on my own. Getting Dengue Fever in Thailand? Figuring out the metro system in Tokyo, a city of 13 million people where practically nobody speaks English? Dealing with unwanted attention from the super creepy owner of my guesthouse in Malaysia? Check, check and check. It hasn't always been easy and I've shed more than a few tears shed along the way but I've handled it all, without having anybody from home there with me.

I’ve met countless people and made many friends while traveling, but the fact remains that I came to Asia the same way I’ll leave it: only one. I know people travel solo all the time, but I still can't help being just a little proud of myself.