Adventures in FNQ

After a few amazing dives on the Great Barrier Reef, our week in FNQ (Far North Queensland) was off to a fantastic start! 

We spent two nights in Cairns (a rather unremarkable city in my opinion, but a good jump off point to the Reef) then picked up our rented campervan and headed north. Now we were set on seeing crocodiles in Queensland, but in case we didn't see one in the wild (spoiler alert: we didn't) we decided to stop at a crocodile farm (which sounds evil but apparently it's sustainable? I'm still undecided) to have a look at these guys. Boy are they SCARY... but it was cool to get a look at them up close.

That night we parked the camper in a nice, quiet spot near a sugar cane field. Perfect location for a good night's sleep... or so we thought. As soon as the sun went down, the bugs came out to play. Not just one or two - I'm talking hoards. Armies even. It was war, them vs. us, and we didn't stand a chance. So into the camper we went. They can't get us in here, we thought to ourselves smugly. But our triumph was short lived, because within minutes we realized we had another problem on our hands: The heat. The stifling, humid, unbearable heat which, with the windows closed to keep the bugs at bay, had us basically suffocated. We woke up every couple of hours throughout the night, drenched in sweat and gasping for air. (This experience prompted us to buy something that would normally seem ridiculous but considering the circumstances made perfect sense... see the photo below)

Cooling off the next night with our rad new fans

Despite nearly suffocating to death, we made it through the night and first thing the next morning we went to Mossman Gorge. Situated in the Daintree Rainforest, a massive national park in FNQ, the Gorge is not only a sacred Indigenous site but also a perfect spot to have a swim and cool off.

After a refreshing swim in the Gorge, we drove further north all the way to Cape Tribulation, a small, remote locality in the Daintree Rainforest. With a population of only a few hundred people, there wasn't much more in Cape Trib than a few shops, a primary school and a handful of small resorts/hostels/campgrounds. 

Cape Tribulation can be as relaxed or as full on as you want it to be. We decided to make the most of our time and do a couple of day trips while we were there. The first was a guided kayak trip, where a small group of us ventured through mangrove trees and some pretty rough waves, before arriving at a beautiful, coconut-covered beach. 

We would have loved to go diving as well but as there are no dive companies in Cape Trib, the second trip we opted for was snorkelling out on the reef. I thought I might be disappointed considering we had just been diving in Cairns, but I think I actually enjoyed the snorkelling more! This part of the Great Barrier Reef is far less trafficked (we were the only boat out there that day!) and therefore more intact, resulting in more marine life to see - including TURTLES!!!

Seeing the turtles up close and swimming beside them was without a doubt one of the coolest moments of my life. They are so incredibly calm and graceful, you can't help but be just a little awestruck by them.

But the amazing wildlife didn't stop in the ocean - there was plenty to see on land as well. Ever heard of a cassowary? I hadn't before this trip but it's basically an enormous, colourful ostrich. They're rare to see in the wild, but luck must have been on our side because Ben and I saw four in one day (baby ones too!) They have to be some of the most unique looking animals in the world. 

On top of all this incredible array of wildlife, I also had the best fruit ice cream I've ever tasted at the Daintree Ice Cream Company (also with the best view I've ever seen while eating ice cream.) I mean, eating ice cream made from fruit from trees you can see right in front of you - does it get any better?!

Best ice cream shop ever

Apricot, blueberry and wattleseed (yep, it's a real thing!)

When we weren't kayaking, snorkelling, cassowary-spotting or devouring the most delicious ice cream known to man, we were perfectly content just enjoying the scenery that this 135 million year old rainforest had to offer.

Sometimes when you travel, a place just doesn't impress you all that much. FNQ, and the Daintree Rainforest in particular, did just the opposite; It completely, 100% exceeded my expectations. It's one of those places that I know has made a lasting impression on me, probably because I have never seen (and possibly will never see) anything quite like it. 

The Sunshine State

After one of the longest flight itineraries known to man (London-Manila-Darwin-Brisbane, ouch!) Ben and I found ourselves in Brisbane, the capital of Queensland. Situated in north-eastern Australia, Queensland has earned the self-explanatory nickname of 'the Sunshine state'. Having just visited England and Canada (where chilly autumn was in full-force) we couldn't wait to slap on our shorts and bask in the glorious sub-tropical climate.

Unfortunately, most of our time in Brisbane thus far has been spent on the couch job-hunting, although the sunny weather nearly convinced us on several occasions to abandon our search for employment altogether. (We do have a job now by the way, but more on that later!) We did however manage to squeeze in an overnight camping trip to nearby Straddie Island, known for its abundance of wildlife, pristine beaches and overall natural beauty, making it a holiday hotspot for locals and foreigners alike.

Excited to be camping

Straddie Island

Queensland, I love you

Oh hello crystal clear water and incredibly fine white sand beach...

We had it made in the shade, literally

View from our campsite, not bad!

These guys were everywhere

For those of you unfamiliar with the term, budgie smugglers = speedos

Considering we are about to start what sound like pretty strenuous 40 hour work weeks (again, details to come!) this brief island getaway could not have come at a more perfect time. I cannot wait to see more of the Sunshine state!

The Great Victorian Road Trip + Goodbye Melbourne

It’s September 23, 2013. It’s a gorgeous sunny day here in the world’s most liveable city. I’m sitting in one of its many bustling cafes, taking advantage of the Wi-Fi (something my housemates and I never ended up getting in our flat). It’s not a particularly special day, save for the fact that it happens to be my last in Melbourne. The last couple of weeks have been so hectic that the fact I'm leaving has barely begun to sink in. Before I get too sad about my departure let me fill you in on what I've been up to.

After quitting our jobs and celebrating with our respective co-workers, Ben and I set off for a week-long road trip around the state of Victoria. Our mode of transport? This beauty right here.

Our classy campervan (and our ghetto flat in the background)

We got more than a few honks....

Our first stop was Wilson's Prom National Park, located on the southernmost point of mainland Australia. The Prom was a place we'd heard had heaps of two things: scenic beauty and wildlife. We were not disappointed on either count.

This, my friends, is a wombat.

A wombat doing what they do best: chewing.

Wallaby!

This sign wasn't kidding, these guys were everywhere!

Fantastic scenery

Wilson's Prom is also where I spent my 24th birthday. First order of business that day was a morning mini-bottle of champagne!
 

We spent the rest of the day exploring various beaches around the Park. The weather wasn't the greatest but on the plus side it meant we had the beaches almost all to ourselves. I never thought I would spend my 24th birthday exploring beaches in an Australian National Park with my English boyfriend, but there you have it!

Squeaky Beach, named for the sand that squeaks under your feet as you walk

On top of the world

Soaked but happy!

After a couple of rainy but awesome days spent at the Prom, we headed north to the Mornington Peninsula. We stopped for a swim at one of the beaches in Mornington Peninsula National Park just as a storm was rolling in. It was the craziest sky I've ever seen!

Ben on the beach

After taking the ferry across Port Philip Bay we were on our way to the Great Ocean Road, considered to be the most scenic stretch of coast in the whole country.

Taking the ferry from Sorrento to Queenscliff

On our way to the Great Ocean Road!

Pretty spectacular

Rainbow!

I think my favourite part of the whole week was when a local tipped us off to a rarely-visited forest in the town of Lorne, well off the main stretch of the Great Ocean Road. Camping wasn't technically allowed there but we stayed the night anyway, with nothing but the koalas (who scared the crap out of us when they started roaring - who knew koalas could roar?!) in the trees around us for company. The experience of waking up in such a peaceful, isolated spot was pretty much the best thing ever.

Had the place all to ourselves, just incredible

Just Ben, myself and a bunch of roaring koalas!

Now at this stage in the trip something unfortunate happened. Long story short, my camera bit the dust (well, technically it was the sand) and stopped working. Ben was a good sport though, and let me use his.

Right after the incident.

Of course this happened right before one of the most scenic parts of the Great Ocean Road, The 12 Apostles. The Apostles are gigantic, stunning rock stacks formed by erosion. I had never seen anything like them.

Several more beaches and gorgeous views later had reached the end of the Great Ocean Road. From there we headed to yet another of Victoria's National Parks, The Grampians. The towns we passed on our way to The Grampians were surprisingly small and remote, much more so than we expected. In one town, Dunkeld, we stopped at a cute little bakery to get some lunch. The owner noticed our van, which obviously indicated that we were budget travelers. For some reason it prompted this very kind man to offer us a free loaf of delicious sourdough bread. Needless to say we were big fans of this little bakery in Dunkeld.

Stoked about the free bread

Like the other places we'd been to, The Grampians had plenty to offer in terms of wildlife. I SAW MY FIRST WILD KANGAROOS!

Kangaroos! Can you see the little joey in the pouch?!?!

It was also the first time all week we'd been able to make a fire, which allowed me to introduce Ben to the wonderful world of s'mores.

We also did a wonderful hike while at The Grampians, which had amazing views and cool rock formations.

On top of the world, again

View from 'The Pinnacle'

Ancient and rare Aboriginal cave drawings

Seven days, thousands of kilometers, so many sights... it was one of the best weeks of my life. (And that was just some of one state in this massive, incredible country!) And now here I am back in Melbourne, reflecting on everything I did and saw this week while simultaneously wrapping my head around the fact that I'm leaving this place, possibly for good. 

Whenever you spend a significant amount of time in a place, you know that even if you come back one day it won't be the same. Sure I may come back to Melbourne one day but it will be different. The city will undoubtedly be different. I'll certainly be different. And so while I feel ready to leave and to move on to new things, I can't help but feel a little sad, as you do when a chapter of your life is coming to a close. Still, with endings come new beginnings, and I have a lot to look forward to. First up are the tropical islands of Fiji, followed by a trip home to see family and friends, whom I haven't seen in a year. I will miss you dearly Melbourne, but bring on what's ahead!